Light Vanity Lamp

Posted in Lamps, Shades & Ceiling Fans by admin on September 28, 2010 No Comments yet



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BATHROOM VANITY LIGHT ENERGY EFFICIENT FLUORESCENT LAMP 12
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Tech Lighting 700BCLUN24S-HL, Luna Wall Vanity Lighting, 240w Halogen, Nickel
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Ashley-Metal Desk Lamp Silver-L702122
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(2)Ashley-Poly Table Lamp Almost Black-L409914
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(2)Ashley-Metal Table Lamp Faux Marble-L288494
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(2)Ashley-Poly Table Lamp Antique Gold-L286924
US $168.00
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US $196.00
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(2)Ashley-Ceramic Table Lamp Deep Red-L247014
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(2)Ashley-Garnet Poly Table Lamp Red/black/gold-L244714
US $158.00
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(2)Ashley-Table Lamp Dark Brown Gold-L370974
US $184.00
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(2)Ashley-Metal/glass Table Lamp Gold-L521904
US $176.00
Ashley-Floor Lamp Dark Brown/gold-L370971
Ashley-Floor Lamp Dark Brown/gold-L370971
US $171.00
(2)Ashley-Poly Table Lamp-L530944
(2)Ashley-Poly Table Lamp-L530944
US $198.00
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(2)Ashley-Wood/chrome Table Lamp-L240154
US $122.00
(2)Ashley-Poly Table Lamp Antique  Gold-L369934
(2)Ashley-Poly Table Lamp Antique Gold-L369934
US $110.00
Ashley-Metal Floor Lamp Glass-L531911
Ashley-Metal Floor Lamp Glass-L531911
US $186.00
(2)Ashley-Turnwood Poly Table Lamp  Black-L235334
(2)Ashley-Turnwood Poly Table Lamp Black-L235334
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(2)Ashley-Bronze Table Lamp Poly Scroll-L347784
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(2)Ashley-Metal Table Lamp Brown Open Work-L301974
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(2)Ashley-Ceramic Table Lamp Multi Jewel Tone-L118714
US $138.00
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(2)Ashley-Metal Table Lamp Crystal-L437104
US $276.00
(2)Ashley-Metal Table Lamp Black/silver-L417294
(2)Ashley-Metal Table Lamp Black/silver-L417294
US $134.00
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(2)Ashley-Barretta Metal/poly Table Lamp Beige-L322844
US $158.00
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(2)Ashley-Glass/metal Table Lamp Mosaic-L436504
US $212.00
(2)Ashley-Metal Table Lamp Lite Bronze-L294264
(2)Ashley-Metal Table Lamp Lite Bronze-L294264
US $160.00
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US $110.00
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(2)Ashley-Almira Metal Table Lamp Brushed Steel Finish-L307164
US $126.00
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US $110.00



Light Vanity Lamp
What color is a common wire ?

I am replacing old 3 button (vertically aligned) light switch. There is 1 thick wire wrapped in white, 1 thick wire wrapped in black and 4 thin wires wrapped in black. I attached the white wire to the common wire screw and put the remaining wires around the screws. I am also replacing a toggle switch that will control the vanity lights above the sink. There are 4 clumps of wire coming through the box. The copper grounds are all twisted together, and there are multiple strands of white covered wire twisted together and then the 5 black cover wires and 1 white covered wires. After hooking it all up, it doesn't do anything. No lights, fan or heat lamp. What did I do wrong?

Warning! Warning! Danger Will Robinson! Step away from the switch box!

But seriously -- electricity is not something to just guess at. There's a very real chance of electrocuting someone or buring your house down -- then, to add to your woes, when the insurance inspector finds that it was caused by a bad, non-inspected wiring job, they'll cancel your policy and refuse to pay on the claim.

Now, as to your problem -- luckily you did it wrong in such a way that nothing was hot - so no sparks, fire or death.

Picture your triple-switch as a capital "E" The spine of the E is the common, and supplies power to the arms, which are the three seperate switches tapping off the common hot and feeding power to whatever they're supplying. The big black wire is probable your hot source, but you'll need a volt meter to confirm. Connect the hot source wire (the one that's hot when the breaker is on) to the common, and the individual black wires to the other side of the three switches. The whites (neutrals) are all connected together, as are all of the grounds (whites together and grounds together -- not whites AND grounds together).

You lost me on the second circuit - you first describe it as supplying a vanity light - but then you mention lights, fan and heatlamp -- was that in reference to the triple switch, or...? Please clarify, but I'll answer - basing my answer on the assumption that this switch is ONLY controlling the vanity light, and the "No lights, fan or heat lamp" was refering to the triple switch in the first half of your question.

A single-switch light circuit can be wired in one of two ways -- either power comes into the switch box, and there will be a white and a black going to the light -OR- power will come into the light, and two wires will lead to the switch - these two wires should both be black or some other non-white color, but sometimes a white/black pair is used and the white is marked to indicate that it's really a "black", by either wrapping it in electrical tape or coloring it with permanent marker - unfortunately, some shody workmen ignore the requirement to color the white whire when it's used in a switch loop.

Before I start - all of this is predicated on the assumption that you ONLY disconnected the two wires from the original switch and you now have ONLY TWO loose wires. If this is not the case, then all bets are off and you should call an electrician, because there's not easy way to determine which wire is supposed to go where, and there's that whole fire/death thing we talked about earlier.

Because you've got a bunch of black wires coming into this box, my guess is that this is the hot source for this light circuit. If that's the case, then you should have a loose wire that ties into the bundle of black wires, and a second loose black wire that dissapears into the wall. If this is what you have, then the two black wires go on the switch and you're done.

If you don't have a black stub coming from the black bundle, then you should have two loose wires (probably both non-white, but could be black and white) dissapearing into the wall. This would be a switch loop. Connect the two loose wires to the switch, and you're done. If this was the case, and the light now works -- if one of the switch wires is white, take a magic marker and color it black before you bundle everything back up.

Now the lesson to learn from all of this for future projects is to NEVER disconnect any existing wiring until your ready to connect the replacement part. If you absolutely have to remove the existing part first to identify a replacement, then label each wire you disconnect with tape and a marker, and make a detailed diagram of what each wire was connected to.

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